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Hollinger Corp. 
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By Inch Ruleilil Tape Measure . 



"■■■ 







! 1888 Q ' 




Copyright 1X35 % By M.M.Tupner. 
^ CINCINNATI, 0. ALL RIGHTS RES E R V E D . ^J 



The Strot>ridbe Lit fmatlp. 



PREFACE. 



The great multitude of systems, models, charts, diagrams, rules, &c, of 
different names, makes, dates and shapes, with prices ranging from 50 
cents to $20, make it seem of little importance that one more is added to 
the number. But from an examination of these systems we learn no au- 
thor has ever before attempted to give the Elements of Dress-Cutting ; that 
few possess any practical knowledge, and display little originality except 
for the evasion of the law. There are those who print and sell dress charts 
who cannot repeat the multiplication table. From an examination of 
our measurements you will not fail to observe that we divide the chest 
circumference at the side seam; that we divide the shoulder measure- 
ments at the shoulder seam; that we subdivide the shoulder meas- 
urements by the back length at the top of the side seam. 

Without these measurements and without this division and sub- 
division of the measurements, your system is nothing but a model; 
drafts by the uncertain rule of proportions, and dresses must be tried 
on and fitted before making. The points from and to which we measure 
are established according to an exact science. All this and much more 
is new, original, and characteristic of the Improved system of Drafting. 
The long and fruitless efforts made with systems in other forms by dif- 
ferent methods of measurement create the present mania for learning 
to draft from actual measurement by inch rule and tape measure. The 
simplicity of the inch rule, its veritable correspondence with the tape 
measure, make it the best and only correct means of copying the 
exact proportions of individual forms. The judgment and preferences 
of the cutter is not displaced, as by chart or square, with set curves ami 
scales, making the reproduction of different styles vexatious or impos- 
sible. 



8 

I first discovered the inestimable advantages of this method of 
measurement in 1868/ During- that same year I printed and copyrighted 
a crude system with directions for measuring and drafting, and disposed 
of a few copies at an enormous price. The second edition of this 
system, with valuable improvements, was destroyed in the great Chicago 
fire, 1871. Now after thirteen years of time for improving I give you 
this system perfected, at the urgent request of my first scholars. It is 
truly the great effort of my life. I cannot contemplate the time expend- 
ed and the personal sacrifice made for its construction without great 
embarrassment. It is and will be a hundred years hence, as here repre- 
sented the rainbow of unceasing promise. We place the dove upon 
the right as evidence of Christian faith; the letter K upon the left is a 
memorial of our effort to reserve and desire to share with our kinsfolks 
not writing upon this much loved specialty the use and monopoly of 
our designs, formula and emblems. The housed globe upon the center 
is an unexceptionable challenge to the citizens of every nationality to 
compete with us in a national or international university of authorship 
for the highest degree of merit and perfect n ess. We print in national 
colors in acknowledgement of our allegiance to the United States of 
America. 

Truly Yours, 

MILO M, TURNER, LL B„ 

Practical and Professional Dress and Cloak Cutter. 



IMPROVED SYSTEM OF DRAFTING 



DEFINITIONS. 

Definition 1. Dress-Cutting is the science which has for its object 
the cutting out and basting of Ladies', Misses' and Children's clothing, 
and preparing it in size, form and fashion for the more substantial sew- 
ing of the seamstress by machine or hand. 

Def. 2. Form-Fiting is the adjustment of the lining to the form by- 
pinning on or trying on without the intervention of artificial means. 

Def 3. A Model is the arrangement of a scale at the angles of a 
full size pattern which diminish its size according to the order of its 
numbers. 

Def. 4. A System is a correct application of the measurements ne- 
cessary to determine the size and form of the person. 

Daf. 5. A Scale is a succession of numbers placed upon a line or 
curve at regular intervals, which correspond with and apply the meas- 
urement. 

Ddt. 6. A Form Fitting Pattern is the true representative of size 
fashion and individual form. 

Def. 7. The Analysis of a Pattern consists in giving correctly: 1st, 
Reference; 2nd, Divisions; 3rd, Outlines; 4th, Measurements; 5th, Form. 

Def. 8. Reference is proof of authority and directions for finding. 

Def. D. A Division of a Pattern is one of its proportional or com- 
ponent parts. 

Def. 10. An Outline is either a line or curve describing one of the 
sides of a pattern, a division of a pattern or a subdivision. 

Measurement. 

Def. 11. Measurement is the process of computing size and form 
according to some established standard or usage. 

Def. 12. Tension has reference simply to the tightness, directness 
or accuracy with which the measure is applied upon the form. 

Principle 1. Measurement is Actual, Division and Descriptive. 

Def. 13. Actual measurement is where the measurement of the pat- 
tern drafted actually corresponls to the measurement of the form, and 
measures the same, inch for inch. 

Def. 14. Division measurement is a measurement so divided as to 
proportion the different parts. 

Def. 15. Descriptive measurement is the analysis of form by means 
of sectional lines to descover the irregularity of its proportions. 



12 

Obs. 0. Darts in the same position upon opposite sides are distin- 
guished one from the other by the terms right and left. 

Def. 30. Curves describing the darts are called Dart Curves. 

Def. 31. Lines dividing the darts into two apparently equal parts 
are called Parallels. 

Obs. 10. The dart curves and parallels are numbered separately, 
the former upon the left side from left to right, thus, 1st 2nd, 3rd, 4th; 
the latter upon the left side from right to left, thus 1st, 2nd. 

FORMS. 

Prin. 7. Besides the familiar divisions here named and outlines 
now defined we often produce other curves or lines subdividing A and B, 
viz: the form, the side-form, the back-form, the front-form. 

Def. 32. The Sidebody is the part divided off. 

Def. 33. The Form is the curve or line dividing off the sidebody. 

Def. 34. The Side-Form is the form upon the sidebody of either 
backpart or forepart with allowance made for seam. 

Def. 35. The Back-Form is the form upon the back, with allow- 
ance made for seam. 

Def. 36. The Front-Form is the Form upon the Front with allow- 
ance made for seam. 

Obs. 11. The Forms extends on both sides of one or both parts, in 
a curved line from base to arm, or in a curved or straight line from base 
outline to shoulder outline. 

Measurements Required to Ascertain the Size and Form of 

a Lady's Waist. 
Reference. — Improved System of Drafting. Waist. Diagram Xo. 3. 

a. First Shoulder Measurement of the Back. 

b. First Shoulder Measurement of the Front. 

c. Second Shoulder Measurement of the Back. 

d. Second Shoulder Measurement of the Front. 

e. Third Shoulder Measurement of the Back. 
/. Third Shoulder Measurement of the Front. 
g. Back Width. 

h. Front Width. 

i. Back Length. 

j. Circumference of the Waist. 

k. Circumference of the Neck. 

Figures designate the points from and to which shoulder measure- 
ments are taken. 

All the shoulder measurements are always taken just one inch apart 
at the bottom of the waist upon back and front, and 2 X 4 ' inches apart at 
the shoulder seam for a medium size, less for a small size, more for a 
large size 



13 

Directions for Taking the Measure. 

Belt. Adjust an elastic belt at the bottom of the waist, one inch 
lower in front than at the side or back for all forms. The shoulder 
measurements are taken from and to the lower edge of this belt. 

Direction 1. First Shoulder Measurement of Back. Place zero 
end of tape measure to 1, exactly at the bottom and centre of the 
back, bring the tape measure from 1 snugly to 2, the required height for 
the top of the shoulder seam, which is usually \% inches from centre of 
neck. 

This measurement from 1 to 2 is the first shoulder measurement of 
back. 

2. First Shoulder Measurement of Front. Without removing 
the tape from the position already described, continue the measure- 
ment from 2 to 3, the bottom and centre of the front. 

This measurement from 2 to 3 is the first shoulder measurement of 
the front. Is found by taking the measurement from 1 to 2 from the 
measurement of 1 to 3. 

3. Second Shoulder Measurement of Back. Place zero end of tape 
to 4, the bottom of w r aist one inch from centre of back, and extend 
the tape measure in a straight line to 5, the correct place for the shoul- 
der seam midway between the top of the shoulder seam and the extrem- 
ity of the collar bone. 

This measurement from 4 to 5 is the second shoulder measurement 
of the back. 

4. Second Shoulder Measurement of Front. Without removing the 
tape from the position last described continue the measurement from 5 
to 6, bottom of the front one inch from its centre. 

This measurement from 5 to 6 is the second shoulder measurement 
of the front. Is found by taking the measurement of 4 to 5 from the 
measurement of 4 to 6. ■ 

5. Third Shoulder Measurement of Back. Place zero end of tape 
measure to 7, bottom of the waist two inches from the centre of the back 
and extend the measure to 8 the height you desire the shoulder seam at 
the fall of the shoulder. 

This measurement from 7 to 8 is the third shoulder measurement of 
the back. 

6. Third Shoulder Measurement of the Front. Without removing 
the tape from the position last described, continue the measurement 
from 8 to 9, the bottom of the front two inches from its centre. 

This measurement from 8 to 9 is the third shoulder measurement of 
the front. Is found by taking the measurement of 7 to 8 from the meas- 
urement of 7 to 9. 

7. Back Width. Place a pin under or back of each arm to locate 
the top of the side seams, now, measure directly across the back from 
the pin on the left side to the pin on the right side. (The back width 



14 

should be taken very tight, not to exceed 13 or 14 inches for a lady of 
medium size). 

8. Front Width. Without removing the tape from the position 
last described, continue the measurement around in front just above 
the bust from the pin upon the right side to the pin upon the left side. 

The whole circumference of the chest less the back width is the 
front width. 

Remark 1. The tape measure is not drawn quite as tight when 
taking the front width as when taking the back width. 

9. Back Length. Place the forefinger of the right hand upon the 
centre of the back at the upper edge of the tape measure, before remov- 
ing the tape from the position last described, now, measure from the 
finger's end down upon the centre of the back to the lower edge of the 
belt to obtain the back length. 

Remark 2. The back length is about % of an inch less than the 
length upon a correct side seam. 

10. Circumference of Waist. Is a tight measurement around the 
bottom of the waist after removing the belt. 

11. Circumference of Neck. Is a close measurement around the 
neck at the lower edge of the neck band. 

Remark 3. Without correct measurements all science is a sham. 

Skirt Measurements. 

12. Measure from the bottom of the waist at the centre of the back 

down the length you desire the skirt for the back length. 

13. Measure from the bottom of the waist at the side down the 
length desired for side length. 

14. Measure from the bottom of the waist at the centre down the 
length you desire the skirt in front for the front length. 

Arm Measurements. 
Remark 4. The arm should be held in a horizontal position half 
bent. 

15. Measure from the top of form-seam, on the outside of the arm, 
to the elbow for length of the Upper Arm. 

16. Measure from the elbow to the hand for length of Lower Arm. 

17. Measure around the arm close to the shoulder, a little tight, or 
take this measurement from the arm-size of the dress-waist after bast- 
ing for Arm-size. 

18. Measure around the wrist loosely, so as to slip over the closed 
hand, for Wrist size. 

DIAGRAMS. 

19. The first line drawn to form a diagram is numbered 1, the sec- 
ond line drawn is numbered 2, &c. in numerical order. 

20. The first dot made to form a diagram is lettered A, the second 
dot made is lettered B, &c. in alphabetical order. 



15 



TURNER'S IMPROVED SYSTEM OF DRAFTING 

Consists of Instruction Book, Inch Rule, Tape Measure, Elastic Belt 
and Tracing Wheel. 

Description of Rule. 

The rule is twenty inches in length, one and a quarter inches in 
width, one-seventh of an inch in thickness, is made of wood, metal or rub- 
ber convenient for marking and ruling. 

The rule has two ends, Z end and Y end. The rule has two sides, 
Z side and Y side. The letter Z is placed on Z side of Z end to designate 
Z side and Z end. 

The letter Y is placed on Y side of Y end to designate Y side and 
Y end. 

Z side of rule is divided by lines into inches, halves and quarters. 

Y side of rule is divided by lines into inches, thirds and sixths. 

The inches on Z side are numbered from 1 to 19 by the use of large 
figures. 

The sixths on Y side are numbered from 1 to 100 by the use of smal 
figures, even numbers only from 10 to 100. 

The number of halves at any length on Z side is twice the number 
of inches. 

The number of thirds at any length on Y side is half the number of 
sixths. 

Any number of inches on Z side is reduced to sixths on Y side and 
increased by its sixth part by multiplying by seven. 

When Z end of rule is left, Z side is towards you. 
Directions for Drafting Back B. 

Reference: The Improved System of Drafting. Diagram No. 4. 

21. Z side of rule one inch from right edge of paper, Z end down. 

22. Draw line 1 on Z side from Y end to Z end. 

23. Make dot A at lower end of line 1. 

24. Make dot B on line 1 at back length. 

25. Z end on line 1 Y side to lower end of line 1. 

26. Draw line 2 on Y side from dot A on line 1 to waist circum- 
ference. 

27 . Make dot C on line 2 at waist circumference. 

28. Make dot D on line 2 one inch from dot A. 

29. Make dot E on line 2 two inches from dot A. 

30. Z end on line 1 Z side to dot B. 

31. Draw line 3 on Z side from dot B to half the back width. 

32. Make dot F at half back width on line 3. Lines 2 and 3 are 
drawn parallel. 

33. Make dot G on line 3 three-fourths of an inch from dot B. 

34. Make dot H on line 3 two and one-fourth inches from dot B. 



10 

» 

35. Make dot I online 3 three and three-fourth inches from dot B. 

36. Z corner to dot A, Z side to dot G. 

37. Make dot J on Z side at first shoulder measurement of back. 

38. Z corner to dot D, Z side to dot H. 

39. Make dot K oa Z side at second shoulder measurement of back. 

40. Z corner to dot E, Z side to dot I, 

41. Make dot L on Z side at third shoulder measurement of back. 

42. Z end on line 1, Z side' to dot J. 

43. Draw line 4 from dot J to line 1. 

44. Z corner to dot J, Z side to dot K. 

45. Draw line 5 from dot J to dot K. 

46. Z side to dots K and L. 

47. Extend line 5 from dot K through dot L the length you desire 
the shoulder seam. 

48. Draw line 6 from lower end of line 5 to dot F on line 3. 

49. Draw line 7 from dot F to dot C on line 2, 

50. Describe line 8 with a length of tape from A through B to F. 
Line 8 intersects lines 2 and 6 the same distance from dots A and F. 

51. Z corner to dot J, Z side to dot A. 

52. Extend line 1 from dot A to back measure for skirt. 

53. Z corner to junction of lines 1 and 4, Z side, to junction of lines 
8 and 2. 

54. Draw line 9 from line 2 length desired. 

55. Z end on line 1, Z side to junction of lines 6 and 8. 

56. Draw line 10 from line 1 to junction of lines 6 and 8. 

57. Z end on line 10, Z side to dot C. 

58. Draw line 11 from line 10 to dot C, from dot C to side measure- 
ment for skirt. 

59. Z corner to junction of line 10 and 11, Z side to junction of lines 
2 and 8. 

60. Extend line 8 from line 2 length of line 9. 

61. Produce lines 12 and 13 in form to suit the style. 

Directions for Drafting the Front A. 
Reference: The Improved System of Drafting, Diagram No. 5. 

62. Y side of rule one half inch from left edge of paper Zend down. 

63. Draw line 1 on Z side from Y end to Z end. 

64. Make dot A on line 1 one and a quarter inches from lower end of 
line 1. 

65. Z corner to dot A, Z side on line 1. 

66. Make dot B on line 1 at back length increased by one. 
<'>7. Y side on left edge of paper. 

68, Draw line 2 on Z side length of line 1. 

<i'.». Z end on line 1, Z side to lower end of line 1. 

70. Draw line 3 on Z side whole length of rule. 

71. Draw line 4 on V side whole length of rule. 



17 

72. Make dot C on line 4 one inch from dot A. 
7:5. Make dot D on line 4 two inches from dot A. 

74. Z end to dot C, Y side to line 4. 

75. Make dot E on line 4 at seven times half the front width Y side. 

76. Z end on line 1, Z side on line 3. 

77. Make dot F on line 3 one and a half inches from line 1. 

This distance can be increased for a large waist or decreased for a 
small waist. 

78. Y side on line 3 twice the waist circumferance, less six, to dot F. 

79. Make dot G on line 3 at seven times half the front width. 

80. Y side on line 3, figure 5 to dot F,Z end towards line 1. 

81. Find the number nearest to dot G and make dot H on line 3 at 
half this number. 

82. Make dot I on line 3 between dot H and dot G, one inch from 
dotH. 

83. Make dot J on line 3 same distance from dot F as from dot H. 

84. Make dot K on line 3 same distance from dot I as from dot G. 

85. Z corner to dot G, Z side to dot E. 

86. Draw line 5 from dot G to dot E. 

87. Make dot L on line 5 same distance from dot G as from dot E. 

88. Make dot M on line 5 three-quarter inches from dot L, between 
L and G. 

89. Make dot X on line 5 thr^e-quarter inches from dot L, between 
L and E. 

90. Z end on line 1 , Y side to dot B. 

91. Draw line 6 from dot B on line 1 whole length of rule. 
Lines 3, 4 and 6 are drawn parallel. 

92. Make dot on line 6 at seven times half the front width. 

93. Z end to dot 0, Y end across line 1, Y side on line 6. 

94. Make dot P on line 6 at front width increased by four. 

95. Z end on line 1. Z side on line 6. 

96. Make dot Q on line 6 three quarters of an inch from dot B. 

97. Make dot K on line 6 two and one-fourth inches from dot B. 

98. Make dot S on line 6 three and three-fourths inches from dot B. 

99. Z corner to dot A on line 1, Z side to dot Q on line 6. 

100. Make dot T at the first shoulder measurement of the front on 
Z side. 

101. Z corner to dot C on line 4, Z side to dot R on line 6. 

102. Make dot U at the second shoulder measurement of the front, Z 
side. 

103. Z corner to dot D on line 4, Z side to dot S on line 6. 

104. Make dot V at the third shoulder measurement of front on Z 
side. 

Remark 5. The distance of dots Q, R and S front drafting from 
line 1 is always the same as the distance of dots G, H, [, back drafting 
from line 1. 



18 

Increase the distance of these dots from line 1 for a wide shoulder, 
and decrease the distance for a narrow shoulder, so that dots J, K, L. 
back drafting, and T, U, V front drafting may be the same distance 
apart, and the same distance from the centre as points 2-5-8, diagram 
No. 3. 

105. Z corner to dot T, Z side to dot U. 

106. Draw line 7 from dot T to dot U. 

107. Z side to dots U and V. 

108. Extend line 7 from dot U through dot V, the length of line 5 
in back drafting. 

109. Draw line 8 from dot O to dot E 

110. Describe line 9 from line 7 through dot P, with length of tape 
twice the width from dot O to dot P. The length of line 9 below line 6 
is one-sixth the width from O to P. 

111. Describe line 10 from dot O to lower end of line 9 with length 
of tape twice the width from dot O to dot P. 

Round at the junction of lines 9 and 10 as per dotted line. 

112. Z corner to dot T twice the neck circumference Yside on line 1. 

113. Make dot W on line 1 at twice the neck circumference Y side. 

114. Describe line 11 from dot T to dot W, with length of tape from 
dot T to dot W. 

115. Z end on line 6, Z side to dot L. 

116. Draw line 12 on Z side from line 6 through dot L below line 5 
from 2 to 6 inches — to bottom of skirt for a basque. 

117. Draw line 13 from junction of lines 10 and 12 to dot N on line 
5, from dot N to lower end of line 12. 

118. Draw r line 14 from junction of lines 10 and 12 to dot M on line 
5 from dot M to lower end of line 12. Lines 8 and 12 can be drawn par- 
allel with line 1 for a large waist by removing dot O further from line 1, 
or by drawinglines 1-2 on a diagonal as for corpulent ladies. 

119. Z end on line 6, Y side to dot J. 

120. Draw line 15 on Y side from 22 to dot J, from dot J, below line 
3 four times the width from dot F to dot H. 

121. Draw line 16 from upper extremity of line 15 to dot F, from dot 
F to lower extremity of line 15. 

' 122. Draw line 17 from upper extremity of line 15 to dot H, from 
dot H to lower extremity of line 15. 

123. Z end on line 6, Y side to dot K. 

124. Draw line 18 on Y side from 20 through dot K the length of 
line 15. Lines 15 and 18 are drawn parallel with line 1 usually. 

125. Draw line 19 from upper extremity of line 18 to dot I, from dot 
I to lower extremity of line 18. 

L26. Draw line 20 from upper extremity of line 18 to dot G, from 
dot G to lower extremity of line 18. 

127. Z corner to junction of lines 7 and 9, Zside to dot E. 

128. Draw line 21 from dot E the length of line 11 in back drafting. 



19 

129. Extend lines 1 and 2 and produce line 22. 

Kemark 6. If after having made the draft you should desire to 
change the position of shoulder or side seams take from the measure- 
ments of one part and add it to the corresponding measurements of the 
other part. 

Remark 7. If dots E and G are both removed further from line 1 
the width for darts will be increased the distance removed; if placed 
closer the width will be decreased. 

Directions for Drafting for Corpulent Ladies. 

Eront. 

130. Y side at Y end six inches from left edge of paper, at Z end 
three inches. 

131. Draw line 1 on Z side. 

132. Make dots A and B. 

133. Draw line 2 parallel with line 1 and same length. 

134. Z end on left edge of paper, Z side to end of line 1. 

135. Draw lines 3 and 4. 

136. Make dots C, D,E. 

137. Make dot F on line 3 two or two and a half inches from line 1 # 

138. Draw line 6 parallel with lines 3 and 4. Complete the draft as 
before. 

No change is made when drafting the back. 

CLOAKS AND OUTSIDE GARMENTS ARE USUALLY DRAFTED 
HALF OR LOOSE FITTING. 

Half-Fitting Garments. 

Back. Is drafted by adding Y % inch on line 3, 1 inch to line 2. Dia- 
gram No. 4. 

Front, Is drafted the same as for close-fitting garments. 

Loose-Fitting Garments. 

Back. Add 1 inch to line 3 and extend line 2 from C until same 
length as line 3. 

Front. Is drafted the same as close-fitting without darts. 

Remark 8. If under arm seam is not required make dot E on line 
4 when Z end is on line 1. 

Double- Breasted Ga km ents. 

Allow two and one-half inches in front of line 1, when hem is not 
required, three and three-quarter inches in front of line 1 for both dou- 
ble-breast and hem, 

DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING-OUT. 

Fold the lining end to end, wrong side out, with either edge to- 
ward you. 



20 

Back. Diagram No. 4. Pin the pattern to the lining, with centre 
upon its right edge. 

Trace lines 1 — 4 — 5 — 9, and on line 6 from line 5 to line 10, on line 
8 from 6 to 2, on line 2 from 1 to 8. Remove the pattern. Cut out, al- 
lowing only for center, form and shoulder seams. 

Front. Diagram No. 5. Pin the pattern to the lining with centre 
upon its left edge. Trace lines 2—3—5—8—9—10—7—1 1—13—14—16— 
17 — 19 — 20 -21 — 22, Remove the pattern. Cut out, allowing only for 
side shoulder and form seams. 

Side-Body. Diagram No 4. Pin the pattern to the small, irregular 
piece of cloth left a f ter cutting back and front, taking care that line 2 
runs with the cross-thread of the go )ds. Trace lines 8 — 7 — 13, on line 
11 from 13 to line 2, and on line 6 from line 7 to line 10. Remove the 
pattern. Cut out, allowing for side and form seams on both waist 
and skirt. Write the name and measurements of your customer upon 
this Form-Fitting Pattern and preserve tor future use. 

Directions for Basting. 

Turn the hem at line 2 and baste down. 

Fold the darts in the centre and baste down. 

Match the waist lines 2 to 2 and 2 to 5 with certainty and accuracy. 

Baste the centre, form and side-seams up from bottom of waist to 
neck and arm. 

The seams of the skirt are basted from the waist down. 

Commence at neck to baste the shoulder seams. Stretch the front 
at the hollow of the shoulder, and full the shoulder seam of the back 
for round or stooped-shoulders. 

Directions for Covering the Ball. 
One measurement only is required, its circumference. Fold a piece 
of cloth in length half the given circumference. With % the length of 
cloth for a radius describe an arc whose chord shall be the fold of cloth, 
and you have one-quarter. The remaining three-quarters can be cut 
by it. 

Directions for Drafting the Sleeve. 

Reference: The Improved System of Drafting. Diagram No. 6. 

139. Z end % mcn from left edge, Y side on top edge. 

140. Draw line 1 from Z end on Z side. 

141. Y side on line 1, Z end to left end of line 1. 

142. Make dot A on line 1 at half the arm size. 
14.;. Z end to dot A, Z side on line 1. 

144. Make dot B on line 1 at upper arm. 

145. Z end to dot B, Z side on line 1. 
140. Make dot C on line 1 at lower arm. 

147. Z end on line 1, Z corner to dot C. 

148. Draw line 2. 

149. Make dot D on line 2 at one-fourth the lower arm. 



21 

150. Draw line 3. 

151. Z end on line 3, Y side to dot D. 

152. Draw line 4 in length % the wrist size and make dot E. 
158. Y side on line 1, figure 2 to dot A.. 

154. Make dot E on line 1 at arm size. 

155. Z end on line 1, Z corner to dot E. 

156. Draw line 5 on Z side parallel with left edge. 

157. Make dot G on line 5 at half the arm size. 

158. Make dot H on line 5 same distance from dot G as from dot F. 

159. Z end on line 1, Y side to dot B. 

160. Draw line 6 from dot B on line 1 parallel with line 5 on Y side- 

161. Make dot I on line 6 at twice the arm size. 

162. Draw line 7 from dot I to dot E. 

163. Draw line 8 from dot I to dot G. 

164. Z end on line 5, Y side to dot H. 

165. Draw line on Y side, from dot H on line 5 to left edge. 

166. Make dot J. on line 9 at three times half the arm size. 

167. Sweep curve from A to J by length of tape from E to J. 

168. Sweep curve from J to G by length of tape from G to E. 

169. Outlines A, E,B,D, E, V, I and J is the top side of right sleeve. 
Draw under side as per dotted line. 



QUESTIONS, WITH THE NU3IBER OF THE DEFI- 
NITION, PRINCIPLE, DIRECTION OR OBSER- 
VATION CONTAINING THE ANSAVER. 

DEFINITIONS. 
Def. 1. Define dress cutting. Def. 2. What is form-fitting ? Def. 3 
Define model. Def. 4. Define system. Def. 5. Define scale. Def. 6. 
What is a form-fitting pattern ? Def. 7. How do you analyze a pattern ? 
Def. 8. What is reference? Def. 9. What is a division of a pattern? 
Def. 10. What is an outline? Def. 11. What is measurement? Def. 12. 
What is tension? Pan. 1. What is said of measurement? Def. 13 
What is actual measurement ? Def. 14. What is division measurement? 
Def. 15. What is descriptive measurement? 

FOEM. 

Def. 16. Define form. Prin. 2. How are forms divided? Def. 17 
What is a perfect form ? Prin. 3. How are irregular forms described? 
Def. 18. What is said of a simple irregularity? Def. 19. What is said 
of a compound irregularity? Def. 20. What is said of a complex irreg- 
ularity? Prin. 4. Illustrate the different forms by means of a diagram 
of back and circle. 



22 

LADY'S DRESS. 
Prin. 5. How many parts to a lady's dress? Name them. Prin. 6 
How is the waist divided? How are each of these parts subdivided? 
What part is called the upper hemisphere? What the lower hemis- 
phere? 

ANALYSIS OF THE DRESS- WAIST. DIAGRAM NO. 2. 

Give the reference. Draw diagram No. 2. How is the plain waist 
divided ? How is the forepart subdivided ? How is the backpart sub- 
divided? How many outlines have A and B? Nane them. How 
many outlines have the subdivisions of A and B ? Point out and name 
the outlines of each subdivision. Of c, of d, of e, off. Give observa- 
tions 1-2-3. What are the measurements of a perfect form? 

OUTLINES DIAGRAM NO. 2. 
Point out and name the outlines. Def. 21. Where do the center 
outlines extend ? What do the center outlines divide ? Into how many 
parts ? What are these parts called ? Obs. 4. What allowances are 
made outside the center outlines? Def. 22. Define base outline. Def, 
23. Define side outline. Obs. 5. What allowance is made outside the 
side outline. Def. 24. Define arm outline. Obs. 6. What is said of the 
exterior sides ? Def. 25. Define shoulder outline, Obs. 7. What allow- 
ance is made outside the shoulder outline ? Def. 26. Define neck outline. 

DARTS. 

Def. 27. Describe the darts. Obs. 8. What is their use? Def. 28. 
Which is the front dart ? Def. 29. Which the back dart ? Obs, 9. How 
are darts in the same position, but upon opposite sides, distinguished 
one from the other? Def. 30. What are dart curves? Def. 31. What 
are parallels ? Obs. 10. How are dart curves and parallels numbered? 

FORMS. 

Prin. 7. What other curves or lines subdivide AandB? Def. 32- 
What is the side-body ? Def. 33. What is the form? Def. 34. What is 
the aide-form? Def. 35. What is the back-form? Def. 36. What is the 
front-form? Obs. 10. Where do the forms extend? 

MEASUREMENTS. DIAGRAM 3. 

What measurement is represented by a, by b, by c, by d, by e, by f, 
by 9, by h, by i, by j, by 7c? What do the figures designate? How far 
distant are these points at the bottom of the waist? How far apart at 
the shoulder seam ? When less ? When more ? 

DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURE. 

What is said of the belt? Are the shoulder measurements taken 
from and to the top or lower edge of belt? 

Dir. 1. Give direction for taking first shoulder measurement of 
back. From and to what points is it taken? 

Dir. 2. How do we take first shoulder measurement of front ? From 
and to what points is it taken? How found'.-' 



23 

Dir. 3. Give directions for taking the second shoulder measurement 
of back. From and to what points is it taken? 

Dir. 4. How is the second shoulder measurement of the front taken ? 
From and to what points is it taken? How i'om d? 

Div. 5. Give directions for taking the third shoulder measurement 
of the back. From and to what points is it taken? 

Dir. 6. How is the third shoulder measurement of the front takeo ? 
From and to which points is it taken? How found? 

Dir. 7. Give direction for taking the back width. Is it taken tight? 
What is the back width for a lady of medium size? 

Dir. 8. (rive direction for taking che front width. How found? 

Remark 1. Is the front width taken as tight as the back width ? 

Dir. 9. Give directions for taking the back length. 

Remark 2. How does the back length compare with the length upon 
a correct side seam ? 

Dir. 10. How is the waist circumference taken? 

Dir. 11. How is the neck circumference taken? Give Remark 3. 

SKIRT MEASUREMENTS. 

Dir. 12-13-14. Give direction for taking the back length, the side 
length, the front length. 

ARM MEASUREMENTS. 

Remark 4. How should the arm be held ? 
Dir. 15. How is the length of upper arm taken? 
Dir. 16. How is the length of lower arm taken? 
Dir. 17. Give direction for taking the arm size. 
Dir. 18. Give direction for taking the wrist size. 

DIAGRAMS. 

Dir. 19. How r are the lines forming diagrams numbered? Dir. 20. 
How are tne dots forming diagrams lettered? Name the parts to the 
Improved System of Drafting. 

DESCRIPTION OF RULE. 

What is the length of the rule ? What its width ? What its thick- 
ness? Of what material made? How many ends has the rule? How 
many sides ? How are its ends and sides designated? How is Z side of 
rule divided? How is Y side divided? How are the inches on Z side 
numbered? How are the sixths on Y side numbered? What is the 
number of halves at any length on Z side. What is the number of 
thirds at any length on Y side? How is any number of inches on Z 
side reduced to sixths on Y side and increased by its sixth part? When 
Z end of rule is left, where is Z side ? 



24 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING BACK. DIAGRAM NO. 4. 

Dir. 21-22. Give directions for drawing line 1. Dir. 23. Where is 
dot A made? Dir. 24. Where is dot B made? Dir. 25-26. Give direc- 
tions for drawing line 2. Dir. 27. Where is dot C made? Dir. 28. Where 
is dot D made? Dir. 29. Where is dot E made? Dir. 30-31. Give direc- 
tions for drawing line 3. Dir. 32. Where is dot F made? What lines 
are drawn parallel ? Dir. 33. Where is dot G made ? Dir. 34. Where is 
dot H made? Dir. 35. Where is dot I made? Dir. 3(5-37. Where is dot 
J made? Dir. 38-39. Where is dot K made ? Dir. 40-41. Where is dot 
L made? Dir. 42-43 Give directions for drawing line 4. Dir. 44-45^ 
Give directions for drawing lines. Dir. 46-47. Give directions for 
extending line 5. Dir. 48. Give directions for drawing line 6. Dir. 49. 
Where is line 7 drawn? Dir. 50. How is line 8 described? Dir. 51-52. 
How is line 1 extended? Dir. 53-54. Give directions for drawing line 9. 
Dir. 55-56. Give directions for drawing line 10. Dir. 57-58. Give direc- 
tions for drawing line 11. Dir. 59-60. How is line 8 extended? Dir- 
61. How are lines 12 and 13 produced? 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING FRONT. DIAGRAM NO. 5. 

Dir. 62-63. Give directions for drawing line 1. Dir. 64. Where is 
dot A made? Dir. 65-66. Where is dot B made? Dir, 67-68. Give 
directions for drawing line 2. Dir. 69-70-71. Give directions for drawing 
lines 3 and 4. Dir. 72. Where is dot C made? Dir. 73. Where is dot D 
made? Dir. 74-75. Where is dot E made? Dir. 76-77. Give directions for 
making dot F. Dir. 78-79. Give directions for making dot G. Dir. 
80-81. Give directions for making dot H. Dir. 82. Give directions for 
making dot I. Dir. 83. Give directions for making dot J. Dir. 84, Give 
directions for making dot K. Dir. 85-86. Give directions for drawing 
line 5. Dir. 87. Where is dot L made? Dir. 88. Where is dot M made? 
Dir. 89. Where is dot N made? Dir. 90-91. Give directions for drawing 
line 6. What lines are drawn parallel? Dir. 92. Where is dot O made ? 
Dir. 93-94 Give directions for making dot P. Dir. 95-96. Give direc- 
tions for making clotQ. Dir. 97. Where is dot R made? Dir. 98. Where 
is dot S made?, Dir. 9!) -100. Where is dot T made? Dir. 101-102. 
Where is dot U made? Dir, 103-104. Where is dot V made ? Dir. 105- 
106. Give directions for drawing line 7. Dir. 107-108. Give directions 
for extending line 7. Dir. 109. Where is line 8 drawn? Dir. 110. How 
is line 9 described? What is the length of line 9 below line 6 ? Dir. 
111. How is line 10 described? How rounded? Dir. 1)2-113. Give 
directions for making dot W. Dir. 114. How is line 11 described? Dir. 
115-110. (Jive directions for drawing line 12. Dir. 117. Give directions 
lor drawing line 13. Dir. 118. Give directions tor drawing line 14, 
How can lines 8 and 12 be drawn parallel? Dir. 119 120. (Jive direc- 
tions for drawing line 15. Dir. 121. Give directions for drawing line 16. 
Dir. 122. Give directions Tor drawing line 17. Dir. 123 L24. Give direc- 



25 

tions for drawing line 18. Dir, 125. Give directions tor drawing line 1!». 
Dir. 126. (live directions for drawing line 20. Dir. 127-128. (Jive direc- 
tions for drawing line 21, Dir. 129. What lines are extended? What 
line is produced'? Remark G. How is the position of shoulder or side 
seams changed? Remark 7. How is the width for darts increased- V 
How decreased? 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING FOR CORPULENT LADIES, 

Dir. 130-131. Give directions for drawing line 1. Dir. 132. Where 
are dots A and B made? Dir. 133. Give directions for drawing line 2. 
Dir. L34-135. Give directions for drawing lines 3 and 4. Dir. 13G. Where 
are dotsC, D, Emade? Dir. 137. Where is dot F made? Dir. 138. How is 
line G drawn? How do you complete the draft? Is any change made 
when drafting the back? 

HALF-FITTING GARMENTS. 

How is the back drafted ? How the front ? 

LOOSE-FITTING GARMENTS. 

How is the back drafted? How is the front drafted? How is dot 
E made when under-arm seam is not required? 

DOUBLE-BREASTED GARMENTS. 

Give the direction. 

DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 

Back Diagram No. 4. How is the lining folded? How is the pat- 
tern pinned to the lining? What lines are traced? What is to be 
done next ? What seams are allowed ? 

Front Diagram No. 5. How is the pattern pinned to lining? What 
lines are traced? What is to be done next? What seams are allowed? 

Side Body Diagram No. 4. How is the pattern pinned to the lining? 
What lines are traced? What is to be done next? What seams are 
allowed? What use is made of the measurements? Of the pattern ? 

DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING. 

Give the directions for basting. Give directions for covering a ball 

DIRECTION'S FOR DRAFTING SLEEVE. DIAGRAM NO. 6. 

Dir. 139-140. Give directions for drawing line 1, Dir. 141-142. 
Give directions for making dot A. Dir. 143-144. Give directions 
for making dot B. Dir. 145-146. Give directions for making 
dot C. Dir. 147-148. Give directions for drawing line 2. Dir. 149. 
Where is dot D made? Dir. 150. Give directions for drawing line 3- 
Dir. 151-152. Give directions for drawing line 4 and making dot E. Dir. 
153-154. Give directions for making dot F. Dir. 155-156. Give dirac- 



26 

tions for drawing line 5. Dir. 157. Give directions for making dot Gr. 
Dir. 158. Give directions for making dot H. Dir. 159-160. Give direc" 
tions for drawing line 6. Dir. 161. Give directions for making dot 1" 
Dir. 162. For drawing line 7. Dir. 163. For drawing line 8. Dir. 164- 
165. Give directions for drawing line 9. Dir. 166. Give directions for 
making dot J. Dir. 167-168. How do you sweep curve from A to J? 
From J to G? Dir. 169, What letters describe the outlines for top side 
of right sleeve. How is the under side drawn? 



LOCAL AGENTS WANTED. 

As I make a tour through the States every year, those wishing per- 
sonal instruction, and the privilege of teaching this system, w 7 ill please 
give notice by mail. Address, 

MILO M. TURNER, LLB., 

Cincinnati, 0. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 964 952 7 * 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




Hollinger Corp. 
pH 8.5 



UBRARY OF CONGRESS 




Hollinger Corp. 
pH 8.5 



